We didn’t know what to expect, but the reality was something we couldn’t have imagined. Down cobblestone alleyways, a bewitching hodgepodge of styles attested to the city’s many cultural affinities and long-ago occupiers: Persian and Ottoman domes neighboring Soviet towers and Art Nouveau mansions. Brutalist monuments and Byzantine arches gave way to sleek modern villas and lovely row houses with traditional, ornately carved wooden balconies.

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