Faster and faster you paddle, your body pressed against the waxy polyurethane of your board. You sense the wave before you feel it, swelling up from the ocean’s depths. You give it everything you've got. Then it’s under you. It’s rising. You pop up on the edge of an instant, catch the crest, and just like that, you’re in flight. Water, wind, gravity, balance—it’s all come together in this suspended gossamer moment. The wave crashes you back to earth.

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