The Costa Brava’s Wild Side

The best way to explore the roughly 125-mile coastline is by car (or e-bike), as otherwise you risk missing its most beautiful spots. Hidden calas and small coves such as Aigua Xelida, reached via a stepped path—illuminated in the evening—offer space for little more than two dozen lucky visitors and their towels. This means arriving either extra early or extra late. Otherwise, your only option is to jump straight into the water rather than sunbathe. Small restaurants such as Toc al Mar at Cala Aiguablava are no longer insider tips, but they still hold a monopoly on the best sea views. The same goes for Tragamar in Calellade Palafrugell, where, ironically, you do not order patatas bravas, as you do everywhere else in Spain, but patatas Bhután. Travelers rarely stay in just one place along this coast because the next one is always somehow even more beautiful and irresistible. 

Towns such as Llafranc and Tamariu also deserve a stop—whether for a swim or for an afternoon vermuton the promenade—before setting out in the early evening for a walk along the Camí de Ronda. This coastal path winds along the entire shoreline, passing coves, old villas, pine trees, and weathered pavilions. Benches appear at regular intervals, each offering yet another breathtaking panorama, even if the water seems to sparkle exactly the same way in every photograph. Many visitors now come to the Costa Brava primarily to hike, as the seamless connection between the towns is truly unique. Still, evenwalking a short stretch of the Camí is worthwhile, reaffirming—as cliché as it may be—that the best things in life are still free.

In former fishing villages such as Palamós, the boats anchored along the beach are not merely decorative. Many are still in use, heading out to catch the local delicacy gamba roja. These prawns rarelyend up in paella though there are, of course, delicious versions of that dish as well. If possible, rent aboat for a day or join a sailing trip. Most homeowners will tell you they spend more time at sea than on land during the summer, partly because it is cooler and far less crowded but also because silvery coves such as Cala des Tramadiu can be reached only from the water. 

At the northernmost end of the Costa Brava, after a winding final stretch of road, lies the area’s greatest magnet: whitewashed houses stacked up a small hillside, topped by a Gothic church that watches overthe bay—an instantly recognizable postcard image of Cadaqués. Dalí quite literally placed this small village on the map, and in recent years, it has experienced a clear renaissance. Many semi-derelict houses have been sold and carefully restored; boutiques selling designer fashion and local craftsmanship now line the narrow lanes. Alongside classics such as Bar Maritim and the renowned Compartir, new venues have emerged, including Oli Bar, created by the team behind the popular Talla. The international crowd that visits from Barcelona in summer may be seeking “relaxation,” but in truth, it also hopes for a bit of nightlife, and finds it in addition to a handful of small clubs, mainly at semi-private parties.

A visit to Dalí’s house in Port Lligat, just a few minutes’ walk away, remains an essential part of any trip to the Costa Brava. This is not only because of the Instagram-friendly corners, such as the garden overlooking the giant rooftop eggs or the “lip sofa” by the pool. Nowhere else can one understand so clearly how the manic genius worked and why this very spot sparked his surreal visions. Dalí oncedescribed everything along this coastline as a “magnificent geological delirium.” It is hard to imagine ever wanting to leave it.